Hidden Dells

Upper Dells Boat Tour Review: Witches Gulch, Stand Rock and a Sunset Ride Back

Visited July 2025

A sandstone bluff topped with pines glowing in the evening light on the Upper Dells of the Wisconsin River

If you only do one classic Dells attraction, make it the Upper Dells boat tour. The waterparks are what the Dells is known for now, but the river and its sandstone cliffs are why people started coming here in the first place. We took an evening Upper Dells tour with Dells Boat Tours on our July 2025 trip, and the light on the rocks as the sun went down made it even better.

Quick highlights

  • A 2-hour tour of the Wisconsin River above the dam, leaving from 107 Broadway downtown
  • Two shore landings: a boardwalk walk through Witches Gulch and a stop at Stand Rock
  • Towering sandstone cliffs, rock formations and the narrowest part of the river
  • Runs April through October; no reservations needed
  • 2026 prices: $37.25 for adults and $18.50 for kids 11 and under, plus tax; 3 and under free

Upper Dells or Lower Dells?

Dells Boat Tours runs two main tours, and this trips people up.

  • Upper Dells: 2 hours, above the dam, with the two shore landings at Witches Gulch and Stand Rock. Leaves from downtown at 107 Broadway.
  • Lower Dells: 1 hour, below the dam, past formations like Hawk's Bill and the Rocky Islands, with no landings. Leaves from the dock at the junction of Highways 12, 13 and 16.

If your tour stopped at Witches Gulch, it was the Upper Dells. That's the one I'd recommend if you have the time.

On the river

The boat heads upriver past one sandstone formation after another, with a guide pointing out the names and telling stories about the area's geology, history and legends.

A layered sandstone formation on the Upper Dells
One of the first formations upriver.
A sandstone pillar on the riverbank of the Upper Dells
Pillars and ledges carved by the river.

We even spotted a bald eagle perched in a pine along the bank.

A bald eagle perched in a pine tree along the Wisconsin River
A bald eagle watching the boats go by.
Sandstone cliffs at the narrows of the Upper Dells
The cliffs close in as the river narrows.

Witches Gulch

The first landing is Witches Gulch, and it's the highlight. The boat ties up at a dock, and you walk an elevated wooden boardwalk into a narrow slot canyon carved by water, with curving, moss-covered sandstone walls, ferns and a little waterfall. It's noticeably cooler inside.

A tour boat docked at the entrance to Witches Gulch
Docked at Witches Gulch.
The narrow moss-covered sandstone canyon of Witches Gulch
Inside Witches Gulch.
Curving sandstone walls inside Witches Gulch
The walls curve and twist overhead.
The wooden boardwalk over a small waterfall in Witches Gulch
The boardwalk passes over a small waterfall.
The boardwalk running through the narrow canyon at Witches Gulch
The boardwalk winds through the gorge.

There's no road access to Witches Gulch anymore, so the boat is the only way to see it. Restrooms, snacks and a gift shop are at the far end before you head back to the boat.

Stand Rock

A few minutes upriver is the second landing, Stand Rock, a sandstone pillar with a flat cap of rock standing apart from the cliff. You walk up a short, fairly steep path through the woods to see it.

Stand Rock, a sandstone pillar with a flat rock cap, in the woods
Stand Rock.
The gap between Stand Rock and the neighboring cliff
The gap the famous leap crosses.

Stand Rock is famous for a photo. In 1886, Dells photographer H.H. Bennett captured his son Ashley in midair, leaping the gap to the top of the rock. It was one of the first stop-action photographs ever taken. Today, a trained dog recreates the leap during the main season, weather permitting.

The ride back at sunset

The trip back to town took us straight into the sunset, with the sun dropping over the river and the cliffs going dark against the sky. If you can, take one of the later tours in summer.

The sun setting over the Wisconsin River from the boat
Sunset on the way back.
Sandstone cliffs on the Wisconsin River in the evening
The cliffs at dusk.
The sun setting between the river bluffs, seen over the boat's passengers
Heading back to town.

Tips

  • Pick a later tour in summer for softer light and a sunset ride back. Check departure times, since they change through the season.
  • Wear good walking shoes. Both landings involve walking, and the path up to Stand Rock is steep.
  • Bring a light layer. Witches Gulch is cooler than the river, and the upper deck can get breezy.
  • Sit on the upper deck for the best views, if there's room.
  • Ask about dogs before you go. The pet policy for the boats isn't posted, so call ahead if you want to bring yours.
  • Look for combo deals with the Original Wisconsin Ducks or the jet boats when you buy online.

Other ways to do it

  • Sunset Dinner Cruise: on most summer evenings, late May through mid-September, with dinner, live music and a torchlit walk through Witches Gulch. Reservations required.
  • Ghost Boat: an after-dark tour in the fall, with a walk through dark passages. Not recommended for young kids.

Practical details

  • Where: Upper Dells Dock, 107 Broadway, Wisconsin Dells
  • Phone: (608) 254-8555
  • Season: daily, April through October
  • Length: about 2 hours
  • Prices (2026): $37.25 adults, $18.50 kids 11 and under, plus tax; 3 and under free

Our verdict

The Upper Dells boat tour is the classic Dells experience, and it still holds up. Witches Gulch alone is worth the trip, and an evening tour with a sunset ride back makes it one to remember.

See our Wisconsin Dells boat tours guide to compare all the options.

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